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良渚古城遗址公园:中华文明之源

|来源:网友投稿

马克强

地处杭州西北部的良渚古城遗址公园,被列入之江艺术长廊是意料之中的事。从历经五千年沉睡、穿透历史烟云、登上世界舞台中心,至如今山水城池交融,成为后人的“朝圣地”,良渚古城遗址公园已是厚重历史文化最典型、最为直接的物质载体,是体验和感悟“中华五千年文明”的重要场所。

朝圣良渚

都说1000年历史看北京、2000年历史看西安、5000年历史看良渚,漫步在良渚古城遗址公园,一片清新之景让人心旷神怡。

这是一处距今5000多年且拥有城墙和水利系统的规模最大、保存最好的都邑遗址,在2019年7月6日被联合国教科文组织世界遗产委员会列入《世界遗产名录》。总面积14.33平方公里,分城址区、瑶山遗址区、平原低坝—山前长堤区和谷口高坝区4个片区。目前有限开放的区域是城址区的核心部分,面积3.66平方公里,这部分又被分为城门与城墙、考古体验区、河道与作坊、雉山观景台、莫角山宫殿、反山王陵、西城墙遗址、凤山研学基地、大观山休憩区和鹿苑十大片区。

夏末秋初的早晨,天气仍旧有几分炎热,良渚古城遗址公园门外却是游客成群,老人们乘着接驳公交,从良渚地铁站换乘而来;三口之家,驾着小汽车,从双向6车道的京福线驶来;成群的学生,坐满了大巴车,驶进绿树成荫的停车场。提前一周的门票预约,每天保护性限流3000人次,让他们对“朝圣”之旅多了几分虔诚与期待。

暑期里孩子们在家长带领下,在城门与城墙、河道与作坊、反山王陵、西城墙遗址等处耐心观察模拟实景;在考古体验区亲身体验良渚文化发掘;在良渚 · 原创生活馆看文创产品;在最核心的宫殿区,感受王族的崇高地位。俯仰之间,便可穿越时空。而未来,还将建立凤山研学基地,可以为公众提供丰富的研学“朝圣”旅行内容。

立于良渚古城遗址外城,感觉这里更像是一个湿地公园。公园建设以遗址为内容、以公园为形式,遵循的是“保护为主、考古先行”的基本原则,所以遗址上只有很少量的建筑物。凭借原有的水系及后期治理,公园内复原了完整的湿地系统。水草繁盛、水系交织,套种的水稻,一畦一畦连成片,远处天目山余脉,逶迤如黛,农居点缀其间。

逝去的良渚王国并未带走良渚文明,它如涓涓溪流汇入了历史长河,是中华五千年文明史的实证,期待着每一个朝圣者的到来,一起见证更多的未知良渚。

穿越古今

与一般的公园不同,良渚遗址公园是以考古为特色的公园,今后很长一个时期内仍将持续开展的良渚古城遗址考古发掘与研究工作,将是参观者理解古城遗址丰富内涵和遗产价值的重要窗口。

作为国家考古遗址公园,良渚古城遗址公园集考古遗址本体及其环境的保护展示、教育、科研、游览、休闲等多项功能于一体。遗址公园建设是在考古研究的基础上,以遗址本体保护为主,深挖遗址文化内涵,系统梳理遗址区内环境,大量运用绿植标识遗址本体,着力恢复良渚古城时期的古地貌环境,为游客展示一个水草丰美、河网密布的王国都邑。

如今的良渚古城遗址公园大面积地保留和还原了原来的湿地生态系统,公园内林木繁茂、水系纵横,同时为了反映良渚文化稻作文明的特点,还套种了大量的水稻,吸引了大量珍贵鸟类前来栖息,充分展示了良渚古城时期的水乡泽国风貌。

以考古研究为基础,公园还设置了考古体验和河道与作坊两处互动性较强的参访区域,访客在考古体验点参观良渚古城的生活面貌展示外,还能在互动体验里体验一把平时难得一见的考古发掘工作;在河道与作坊区域,还根据考古发现复原了当时作坊区繁荣的生产场景,通过房屋人物的雕塑展示加工玉器、漆器、石器,可以现场体验纺织、夯土、打陀螺等生活和工作场景。

“家门口在建亚运会场馆,门口地铁又可以直通良渚。”家住萧山的戚先生,周末带上孩子,搭乘地铁2号线去良渚博物院看展览,到良渚古城遗址公园看遗址、体验考古项目,一天下来,戚先生很感慨:“一天穿越古今,近身触摸中华民族的根与魂,这种感觉很奇妙。”

融合发展

良渚人梅娇寅,5岁开始学习舞蹈,从良渚出发走出国门,心里念念不忘的始终是故乡。2018年,为助力良渚申遗,她和良渚遗址周边社区联合发起“舞态良渚”社区舞蹈教育公益活动,还带领“舞态良渚”与全世界顶级的舞蹈专家和教育专家分享,让良渚人与良渚的故事走上世界舞台。

“千挑万选,把家安在了良渚,这个夏天就可以搬进新家了。”曾参与良渚申遗志愿者工作的“新杭州人”刘女士憧憬著在良渚的新生活:“楼下就是樱花掩映的大剧院,不远处就是美院良渚校区,步行几公里就能去遗产区感受生态林,选择生活在良渚是精神物质的活色生香。”

正是一个个像她们这样的“原住民”汇入了力量,才让良渚与杭州历史文化名城的建设更加“深度融合”,活态利用得到“新发展”。

“我不是良渚研究的专家,我是良渚的一个仰慕者。中国良渚古城遗址,在我心中是中国乃至全世界最伟大的史前文化遗址之一。”国际考古学泰斗科林 · 伦福儒第三次到访良渚后感叹。

在之前举行的国家考古遗址公园文化艺术周上,103家国家考古遗址公园代表齐聚良渚,发布《关于新时代国家考古遗址公园可持续发展的良渚共识》,科林 · 伦福儒的由衷称赞,引发台下来自世界各地的100多位专家学者的共鸣……做大做强良渚学研究,积极推动文明交流互鉴,这正是杭州坚持“文化交流+学术研究”两条腿走路的成果。

从2019年夏天开始,拿到全国统编《中国历史》教科书的七年级新生,在翻开书页时就可一睹良渚遗址的风采;在良渚古城遗址公园内,还设立了良渚国际研学中心和良渚文明探索营地,共同构建全方位的研学平台、教育基地。

眼下,精心编制的新一版良渚古城遗址保护总体规划,在全新的保护与可持续发展规划中,当地管理机构希望为良渚构筑起“双国宝”的特色保护体系,在将遗产地打造为可持续发展利用的管理典范的同时,将良渚区域打造为中华五千年文明延续并高质量发展的“窗口”。

良渚的故事,依然在現代熠熠生辉;文明的圣地,必将在未来生生不息。一场传承历史文脉、增强文化自信、统筹保护与发展的非凡实践之路,将在杭州这片灿烂土地上继续塑造“古今交汇的文化盛景”。

Archeological Ruins of Liangzhu City:

A Source of Chinese Civilization

By Ma Keqiang

To see the Archeological Ruins of Liangzhu City, which lies in the northwest of Hangzhou, listed among the many development projects of the Zhijiang Art Corridor is not a surprise at all. Lying underground for tens of centuries before being uncovered and then made a world heritage, the Archeological Ruins of Liangzhu City has now become a “sacred place” to experience and appreciate the splendid “5,000-year Chinese civilization”.

It is often said that to see the past 1,000 years of China, one should go to Beijing, to see the past 2,000 years, one should go to Xian, and to see the past 5,000 years, one should go to Liangzhu. Dating back about 5,300 years, the Archaeological Ruins of Liangzhu City is the largest and best-preserved city ruins with both city walls and the water conservancy system, and was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List on July 6, 2019.

Covering an area of 14.33 square kilometers, the ruins is divided into four areas, namely City Site Area, Yaoshan Site Area, Low Dam on the Plain–Causeway in Front of the Mountains Area and High Dam at the Mouth of the Valley Area. At present, only the core part of the City Site Area, a size of 3.66 square kilometers, is open to the public, which is composed of ten sections, including the city gates and city walls, the archeological experience zone, Fanshan Imperial Tomb, among others.

On the morning of a late summer day, the weather is still sultry, but throngs of tourists have already gathered at the entrance to the Archaeological Ruins of Liangzhu City. Elderly people who came here by shuttle bus, families of three or four in their private cars, and busloads of students on their field trips. They stand in line to check in, their tickets reserved a week in advance, for the number of visitors is capped at 3,000 per day, which have undoubtedly heightened their anticipation for the following “pilgrimage”.

Led by their parents, children on summer vacation carefully observe and examine the simulated scenes along the city gates and city walls, among the waterways and workshops, and in front of the Fanshan Imperial Tomb. They are also able to personally experience excavating the Liangzhu ruins and imagine what the Liangzhu kings felt when they resided in the palace 5,000 years ago. Since the summer of 2019, seventh graders all over the country have also been able to read up on the ancient ruins in their history textbook.

Standing in the Outer City of the ruins, the site of the ruins is more akin to a wetland park. In fact, it is generally referred to as a park, an archeological park, more specifically, and the development of park follows the principle of “protection first and foremost, and archeological work trumps everything”. Therefore, only a handful of buildings can be seen on the ruins. Relying on the original water conservancy system that has been later treated, a comprehensive wetland system has been restored. Now, the park is densely forested, with crisscrossing rivers and crooks, in which water plants grow with exuberance. In large swathes of land is also planted rice, to demonstrate unique features of the rice-cultivating agriculture of the Liangzhu culture as its economic base. Indeed, the rice fields have drawn a multitude of rare birds to settle as their habitat.

“Close to my home, the venues for the 2022 Asian Games are being built,” says Mr. Qi, who lives in Xiaoshan district in the southeast of Hangzhou. “Then, on the other side of Metro Line 2 is the 5,000-year-old Liangzhu.” On any weekend, all Mr. Qi, together with his children and family, has to do is hop onto Metro Line 2 before it takes them to the Liangzhu Museum and the Archeological Ruins of Liangzhu City, and transports them back into history. “It is such a wonderful feeling to travel back and forth between modernity and history and touch the root and soul of the Chinese nation,” according to Mr. Qi.

To the roots the Chinese people always return. A Liangzhu native, Ms. Mei Jiaoyin has been studying dance since she was five years old. She had been staying abroad for many years when, in 2018, Ms. Mei returned to Liangzhu and joined the campaign for the Archeological Ruins of Liangzhu City to become a world heritage site by telling the Liangzhu story through dancing. “Out of so many choices, Ive finally decided to settle down in Liangzhu,” Ms. Liu, who worked as a volunteer for the campaign, is looking forward to her new life. “Ill soon move into my new apartment, which is only a stones away from the China Academy of Art, and a couple kilometers walk from the ruins.” For her, choosing to live in Liangzhu is simply the best of all worlds, material, spiritual, artistic and cultural.

It is thanks to people like Ms. Mei and Ms Liu that Liangzhu has developed into what it is today. In an age when the public cares more about heritage, about history and culture, the story of Liangzhu is ever more relevant.

“Im no expert on the research on Liangzhu,” Colin Renfrew, a renowned British archeologist, once said after he had visited the ruins for a third time, “but Im its admirer. To me, the Archeological Ruins of Liangzhu City is one of greatest prehistoric sites not only in China, but all over the world.”

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